As we planned our summer holiday and decided to start in Copenhagen, I was faced with two choices. Either I could book Noma or Alchemist, and spend $1800 on a meal for 2 (slightly faints at the thought), or I could eat my way through the Danish capital, digging out hidden spots and finding what makes this city tick.
To help make a decision, I thought of other cities that I am familiar with. If I had to send someone to Delhi, would I tell them to only eat at fancy Bukhara (Indian Accent is arguably the best restaurant in the country but I can’t not recommend people go there, hand on my heart), or would I tell them to instead go eat chole bhature at Nagpal, Chaat at Prince Paan, Ram laddoo at Lajpat Nagar, butter chicken at Pandara, so on and so forth. Or Singapore, for example. Should one only eat at Odette or Zen, or sample the hawker centres and the incredible fare they offer?
The answer was simple. The soul of a city lies hidden in its winding streets and dark alleys, not behind bejewelled doors. And thus, I did what I do best. Got in touch with locals who recommended the hidden gems that no tourist knows about. Here are my top 5 places to eat in Copenhagen if you want to experience the vibe of the city:
- Absalon

Located within a converted church, Absalon is the community space that every city needs. They have several ongoing events each day (listed on their website) from yoga to board game championships. But my favourite is their communal dinner. Served promptly at 18:00 every evening, the produce of the day is cooked into a hearty home-style meal and served on long tables. You are seated with strangers who become friends over the course of the meal. There’s such a sense of camaraderie here. Tickets sell out fast, make sure you book them online in advance.
What I ate: Vegetable green curry, coconut rice, freshly baked bread, hand-churned butter and a garden salad
2. BaneGaarden

An abandoned rail yard converted into an F&B space, BaneGaarden doesn’t figure in any touristy list. Only locals will tell you about this gem, located in the meatpacking district. I absolutely love concepts like this with a variety of food and drinks on offer. Love love love.
What I ate: Fish & chips + Rose wine
3. Hotdogs at Nyhavn

What’s in a hotdog you ask? Everything. You’ve not eaten a hotdog till you have eaten one in Kopenhaven. There are carts parked all over the city. I say, head Nyhavn, the most picturesque part of town where Amsterdam-ish colourful buildings line up along the canal and enjoy the world’s best hotdog there. With Denmark’s characteristic remoulade sauce and the most incredible sprinkling of fried shallots on top, Danish hotdogs are truly life changing. Trust me.
4. Torvehallerne (Food market)

What’s a food list without a farmers’ market or a food market. Though London wins my vote for the best food markets anywhere in the world (I’m looking at you, Borough), Copenhagen’s Torvehallerne is a great place to pick up some cheese, chocolate, fresh produce or even a speciality kitchen knife.
What I ate: The Mexican stall has killer fare. I loved the tacos from there.
5. Aamanns

Known for authentic Smørrebrød (open sandwiches), Aamann’s is just the right dose of fancy. The options for warm or cold Smørrebrød are plenty, with a splattering of other dishes like the popular meatballs. PS. They do a mean espresso martini too! They have several outlets, and the one in Carlsberg is easier to get a table at.
What I ate: Trio of Smørrebrød, my favourite being the cold chicken salad sandwich.