In a city where you throw a stone and great food is to be found, it is beyond difficult to differentiate yourself. Delhi is known to be the food capital of India, and for good reason. Besides the chole bhature and papdi chaats of the streets, and the seekh kebabs of Karims (only the Jama Masjid outlet, of course), Delhi does surprisingly well in the fine dining department too. A large part of this legacy can be attributed to a single restaurant, and the chef who helmed it since inception – Indian Accent. And after an iconic 15-year long stint at the award-winning restaurant, Chef Manish Mehrotra, for the first time, has come into his own. 

Materialization of a dream

Nisaba is like a dream that has lived in his heart and finally taken shape.

Cocooned in Sundar Nursery, in the shadow of Humayun’s Tomb, it is easy to forget that you are in the bustling city of Delhi. Time slows down, the city’s frantic pulse fades. You are transported back 25 years, when Delhi was known for its crisp wintery days, picnics in public parks, and the grandeur of its historical saga, both in its architecture and on the plate. Nisaba, like a time machine, takes you back to those times that felt more authentic, less hurried. More heartfelt.

To sing praises of Chef Manish’s talent would be like hailing Gaudi – stating the obvious. But it must be stated at least once. In my humble opinion, there is no better chef mastering Indian flavours in the world, than Chef Manish Mehrotra. A Michelin inspector once remarked that perhaps the only discerning difference between a credible Food Critic (I don’t like the word critic, I prefer Food Editor or Food Writer) is our sheer exposure. The number of meals we eat out, and thus, the sample of reference we have to draw from. I wouldn’t be exaggerating if I claimed that I have possibly dined at most of the top Indian restaurants around the world, those well-awarded and many hidden gems too. And as much as I respect a lot of the chefs in those kitchens, I have no qualms in proclaiming the genius that is Chef Manish Mehrotra. 

The food at Nisaba

To perfect simplicity is an act of humility. And that is perhaps the best way that I can describe the food at Nisaba. Elevated to global standards, the food rebelliously retains its humble origins. Simple, everyday dishes like dal shine brighter than the more complex ones. There is no drama, no smoke and mirrors. Just quiet elegance. The whispered hush of a deeper understanding of regional Indian flavours than can be found elsewhere. The mutton, oh, the heavenly mutton, arrives in a hearty, mahogany gravy. Eschewing the trendy ‘Champaran’ label, Mehrotra stays true to authentic roots, naming it Motihari Mutton as it’s known in Bihar, served alongside a shattering, hing-laced sattu kachori. 

But I jump the gun. We take our seats in the contemporary dining room that could rival even the Four Seasons or Ritz Carlton’s elegance, set within the calm embrace of Sundar Nursery. It would take pages and pages to review every dish that came out of the kitchen, but let it be said that not a single dish deserves to be overlooked. When a Food Writer reviews a restaurant, it is common for a few dishes to underwhelm and a few to amaze. The writer usually chooses to overlook the average ones, focusing only on the ones they recommend. However, the magic at Nisaba is that there isn’t a single dish on the menu that I suggest you skip. Not one. Every plate is enchanting. A dose of nostalgia. A whiff of genius. 

The Starting Act – Appetizers at Nisaba

The chef’s personal favourite – the Mutton Seekh Kebab is served on a butter skillet topped with blue cheese that adds a playful kick without overwhelming the meat. The Sweet Corn Chat, one of my top dishes, is served in a small cup reminiscent of Alice in Wonderland’s Mad Hatter’s tea party, and celebrates various textures and forms of corn. I couldn’t stop eating it, as I am sure you won’t either. 

Thankfully, Chef Manish retains his famous Moradabadi Dal in this menu too, as I have always had a soft corner for it in his previous stints. Here, it is served with mini samosas, but it’s the dal that steals the show and has me going back for more spoonfuls. The last act in the appetizers, a star by itself, the Barbeque River Sole, has a smoky edge as the tamarind chili miso glaze lifts the perfectly flaky fish to new heights. 

Main Course That Delivers

For mains, we made chef’s life a little more difficult as my dining companion is gluten intolerant. She needn’t have worried, her millet roti danced circles around any other bread we tried. The Motihari Mutton mentioned above set the bar high for any mutton gravy I will ever have in any part of the world, such was its brilliance. A perfect balance of spices, mutton that fell off the bones, and hing sattu kachori to lap up the home-style gravy. 

Another surprising hero act is the Pit Roast Pineapple Curry where grilled pineapple swims in an addictive curry, best eaten with rice, rather than the mini set dosa served with it. A topping of crispy curry leaves, a tempering of mustard seeds, it is the honest simplicity of memorable flavours that make this unassuming dish shine, not fancy plating or expensive ingredients.    

Odes to Singapore can be found sprinkled around owing to chef’s other two partners who are residents of the Red Dot. A Burnt Ends book on a bookshelf catches my eye, but it is only when the Chilli Tomato Crab Ghotala is brought to the table, that I smile in recognition. Cleverly adapting Singapore’s Chilli Crab to Indian flavours, tipping his hat to his other two partners, Chef Manish brings an unexpected glimpse of this island to diners in Delhi.

A Sweet Touch

No meal is complete without dessert and though I have absolutely no space left, I can not bring myself to ask for the cheque without a final act. And boy, am I glad I did. Because whatever you do, do NOT skip the Baked Rasmalai. With nolen gur swirling through it, the decadent baked dessert brings the nostalgia of caramel custard together with the indulgence of Bengali sweets and presents it in one award-worthy bowl. A standing ovation is appropriate, or swooning in delight, however you choose to express your gratification. 

As we prepare to be practically airlifted out, a testament to our lack of restraint, we feel truly humbled to be in the presence of genius. Nisaba is not just a restaurant. It is the materialisation of a dream, a platform to allow an exceptional culinary wizard to shine in his own right. If there was a single restaurant in the country that deserved a ticket to be booked, simply to enjoy a meal here, it is this. Do not overthink – book your ticket to Delhi now, but make sure you have a reservation in advance. 

Nisaba is a hug on a plate. A meal that will stay with you for years to come. A place where simplicity is celebrated, and pure talent shines. A place like none other.