Copenhagen is an interesting city. And the use of that adjective should be telling enough. Interesting is a word I use when I don’t have anything definitive to say about something. The word allows me room to be vague, to hide behind it. Copenhagen is nothing like the other European cities I have seen, big or small. The architecture is a strange mishmash of block-inspired modern structures and staid five-storey red brick older townhouses with sloping roofs. It doesn’t have the artistic romance of Paris, the cosmopolitan grunge of London, the aching beauty of Rome or the edge of Amsterdam. At best, it seems to be stuck in a #MeToo movement of its own, since centuries old.

The canals are modelled around Amsterdam, the food markets miniature versions of Borough, and the food limited. The Smørrebrød is delicious, though similar to Cicchetti from Venice or Montaditos from Spain. Meatballs are big and hearty, though not unique in themselves. The hot dogs though. Oh, man. Now, that’s a case study in itself. How to take one of the most commonly eaten street foods of the world and make it your own. The Danish hot dogs are the BEST I have ever eaten anywhere in the world. A cultural institution, grilled hot dogs are topped with creamy, curried remoulade sauce, fresh pickled cucumbers and crispy fried shallots. Finger lickin’ good.

So, what then sets Denmark apart? What is Copenhagen’s ‘brand’ or vibe?
For me, it’s two-fold. One is the sense of community. City squares come alive on weekends with people sitting together, sharing a laugh, and listening to local musicians play. One of the best food experiences in the city, and surprisingly the most economical one, is a place called Absalon. An abandoned church converted into a community centre of sorts, there is a communal dinner every evening at 6pm here. Tickets are highly coveted and sold online in advance. You are seated on long tables with strangers and served a hearty but simple meal family-style. You can linger, play a board game or join a yoga class if you fancy it. After the langars of Sikh gurdwaras, this was the first time I found such an amazing and successful communal meal program. Incredible and a must-do. Over the Nomas and Alchemists of the world.

The second unique aspect of Copenhagen is a natural inclination towards sustainability. Veganism is rampant, such that it’s rare to find a dairy whipped cream topping, usually replaced by a vegan variant. Many European countries offer meat-heavy cuisines where vegetables are an afterthought but in Denmark, vegetables and fish form the core of daily consumption. Plant-based cuisine is astoundingly popular, and not in an ‘on-trend’ kind of way but rather a way of living.
So, as I move on to Sweden tomorrow, to discover what its countryside holds, I feel safe in the knowledge that the Nordic countries no longer are a clustered group of similar cultures for me. Rather, one by one, I find myself peeling back the layers of each, discovering their uniqueness. Through their food, their people, their way of living, I find myself charmed by the nuances that make each one of us special in our own way. With a voice and a distinct identity of our own.
Love this! Very well-written and interesting to read. Thanks for sharing 🙂
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